Beyond Organic
By Jo Robinson
Organically certified meat, poultry, and dairy products are now
available at your local supermarket. When you see the green USDA organic
label, you know the food is going to be free of pesticide residues,
synthetic hormones, antibiotics, and genetically-modified grain.
Compared with ordinary meat, this is a step in the right direction.
But the USDA organic beef regulations fall short of many people’s expectations—especially when it comes to cattle. Specifically, the USDA rules allow cattle to be fed a high-grain diet—not their native diet of grass—and permit cattle to be confined much of the time. That expensive, USDA-certified organic steak at your grocery store is likely to come from a cow that spent most of its time in a feedlot eating far too much grain.
These shortcomings matter a great deal, not just to animal and
nature lovers, but to all consumers concerned about basic human
nutrition and food safety. The problems begin with the grain. When
calves are taken off pasture and shipped to a feedlot to be fattened for
market, they are switched from grass to a high-energy grain diet to
speed their growth and marble their flesh. But grain does not agree with
cattle and other ruminants such as bison and sheep. Ruminants are
highly specialized animals with multi-compartmented stomachs that allow
them to thrive on a diet of high-fiber, bulky grasses—food that we
humans cannot digest. Feeding grain to these grass guzzlers is like
running a Prius on furnace oil; it fouls up the works. The “fuel”
problem for cattle is that grain makes their digestive tract more acid,
giving the animals chronic belly aches. Feedlot calves respond to this
acid indigestion by pawing at their bellies, hanging their heads,
drooling, or eating dirt. Untreated, the calves can develop a more
serious condition called “acidosis.” If acidosis goes unchecked, lesions
that can be fatal will form in the animals’ livers. Corn-fed beef comes
with a cost.
By contrast, when cattle are raised from birth to market on
grass, they remain in excellent health. Routine vaccination is the only
medication they require. A vet told me that the only time he goes to
grass-based ranches is to do pregnancy tests. The rest of his time is
spent helping feedlot managers control the many diseases caused by
excessive grain-feeding and the stress of shipping and confinement.
What is good for the cattle turns out to be good for our health
as well. Dozens of studies now show that meat and dairy products from
grass-fed animals have a bounty of added nutrients. Compared with
grain-fed cattle—organic or otherwise—the meat and milk of grass-fed
cattle have more antioxidants, including vitamin E, beta-carotene, and
vitamin C. The meat is also lower in overall fat and higher in healthy
omega-3s and another healthy fat called “conjugated linoleic acid” or
CLA (http://www.eatwild.com/cla.html).
Eating products from grass-fed animals also gives you an added
measure of food safety. Since the 1990s, we’ve gotten used to meat being
recalled for possible E. coli contamination. In 2008, one such recall
involved a staggering 135 million pounds of beef. Eating grass-fed meat
may reduce your risk of being sickened by these potentially lethal
bacteria. The main reason is that grass-fed cattle and other ruminants
that live outdoors on pasture arrive at the slaughterhouse with
relatively clean hides. Cattle that live in the mud and manure of
feedlots tend to arrive coated with feces that may harbor E. coli
bacteria. The USDA has determined that the cleaner the hides, the lower
the risk that the bacteria will find its way into the meat supply.
Although organic grain-fed meat has advantages over conventional
grain-fed meat, it does not measure up to the benefits that come from
eating 100-percent grass-fed meat. Raising ruminants on grass is better
for animals and consumers. Go grass!
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Jo
Robinson is an investigative journalist and a New York Times
bestselling writer. She is the author/coauthor of 11 nationally
published books including Pasture Perfect, an overview of the benefits
of choosing products from pasture-raised animals. More than three
million copies of her books have been sold. Jo is also the founder and
director of www.eatwild.com, the Internet’s most comprehensive site on the benefits of taking animals out of feedlots and raising them on pasture.

